4: Cult Favorites and Other Great Products

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Prior to doing this research, I had a deep bias in favor of boutique skin care companies. Their products seem more luxurious, have more appealing packaging, and create a sense of inclusion. However, the more important scientifically supported research and development breakthroughs usually come from the big companies who put more money into research. If you want science backed skin care, the larger brands provide a better bang for your buck. And, ironically, many of the boutique brands are actually owned by the giant cosmetic corporations.

Here is a list of big companies and some of the boutique brands they own: Estee Lauder owns Aveda, Clinique, Crème de la Mer, Dr. Jart+, Origins, Prescriptives, and is an investor in Deciem/The Ordinary. L’Oreal owns BioMedic, Biotherm, Kiehls, La Roche Posay, Lancome, Maybelline, Skinceuticals and Vichy. Johnson & Johnson owns Aveeno, Clean & Clear, Neutragena, and ROC. Shisedio owns Bare Minerals. Procter & Gamble owns SK-II and Murad. Unilever owns Kate Sommerville and Murad.

Some smaller companies are still privately owned. These include cult favorites such as Paula’s Choice, Drunk Elephant, Tata Harper, Thayers and Sunday Riley.

The products listed below are not necessarily products I endorse and I have not tried them all. These are the products that I most frequently encountered online and on podcasts and was most curious about. Paula Begoun, the cosmetic cop, has a book called Don’t Go To The Cosmetics Counter Without Me. The latest addition was written in 2012. It has an amazing directory of companies and products and hopefully the next addition will review many of the products listed here.

Cleansers

Remember the goal is to just clean your face for your next product application. Choose a cleansing oil if your skin is dry, choose a cleansing milk if your skin is sensitive. Avoid detergents.

AHA Exfoliating Acids

Apply the AHA directly to dry clean skin and allow at least 20 minutes for full absorption.

BHA/Salicylic acid

Retinol Serums

Use a retinol serum one or more times per week depending on your age.

Vitamin C Serums

Look for a product that contains at least 10% vitamin C, in an opaque container, possibly combined with vitamin E since they work synergistically together.

Niacinamide Serums

Moisturizing Serums

Essence/Moisturizing Toner

Moisturizers

Oils

It is not hard to find an inexpensive cold-pressed oil. Oils are a good category for less expensive products.

Eye Creams

Hand Creams

Lip Balms

Sun Protection

Masks

There are two very different types of masks: hydrating masks and drying masks. Both types produce immediate results but are not as beneficial as serums for long term facial rejuvenation. Masks tend to have ingredients (such as botanical extracts) that sound more beneficial than they really are.

Do not be fooled by masks claiming to "detox" your skin. Only your internal organs can remove toxins so these masks are not purifying and do not detoxify your pores.

A moisturizing face mask will add immediate hydration until it is rinsed off. They are great after an evening of over-indulgence or a poor night’s sleep.

Clay masks absorb oil. A mask with kaolin (a mineral-rich clay), sea mud, or charcoal will provide a gentle exfoliation. Kaolin is also called china clay or white clay. A clay mask can make your pores appear smaller (but it will not last). A clay mask may also be antibacterial and anti-inflammatory (but these effects also will not last). Bentonite clay (with volcanic ash) is very absorbent and works well on oily skin. Seaweed Masks may contain alginate. When the mask dries it forms a film that feels tightening. This may give the look and feel of lifting but the benefit goes away when you wash off the mask.

It is easy to make masks at home that can give your skin vitamins and antioxidants naturally. The following suggestions come from The Age Fix: An at-home apricot mask provides vitamin A. An at-home pineapple mask provides vitamin C. An at home orange juice and lemon juice mask will function as an AHA with vitamin C. An at-home mask made from coffee grounds and olive oil will provide antioxidants and exfoliation. When purchasing masks, avoid irritating ingredients such as lavender, fragrances, and mints, and remember that most botanical ingredients will do nothing for skin (although licorice is a known lightening agent).